Oh the weather outside is.. terrible.

I know a lot of you are wondering where the hell I went or what in the world I am up to. I promise you it has been nothing but a lot of work and a lot of fun the past few months. The first year here was full of idle time, this year it is full of work, hosting people and tightening connections in my community.

My favorite festival in Moldova, the National Moldovan Wine Festival held every October came and went faster than what I want to admit. Last year it was two sunny days of drinking wine samples with other volunteers and endless hours of dancing the Moldovan Hora, an easy, traditional circular dance that you can manage to do no matter how intoxicated you may be. This year I hosted a friend from London over the Wine Festival and we got into our own shenanigans thanks to my much improved Romanian language skills.

Not everything great in life is free, but cheap, delicious champagne is close enough!

One conversation after another just sitting with newly met Moldovans at the fest led to free bottles of wine and sushi. SUSHI! FREE! If there is one thing I miss in America are the endless amounts of semi-affordable sushi spots so meeting a Sushi restaurant owner in Chisinau over the wine fest just about made my year.

Besides Moldova’s version of Oktober Fest I had to play ambassador and show off my favorite parts of Chisinau including the notorious second hand piata that I frequent far too often when I get free time in the big city. My friend landed a Russian gas mask for about 5 bucks and I bought Russian children’s books to help me with my Russian studies (which are very, very slow). This place is a goldmine for Stalin, Lenin, communist era enthusiasts and collectors of all things hammer and sickle-ish.

The open air flea market/second hand piata where I bought this fox had last year!

After retreating from Chisinau, the place that guzzles up my itty bitty living stipend faster than an Irishman can drink a bottle of whiskey we went exploring. And exploring we sure did.

I found us a Soviet Bunker! Well, a what would have been bunker.

To inch its way closer to Europe, the Soviet Union in the 80s started building this massive complex that in my mind looks similar to something aliens would set up after landing in this land of alcoholics. Unfortunately, or really rather fortunately their lack of overall budgeting skills led them to scraping the project when they (finally) left this region in the early 90s. I heard the locals went cookoo for cocoa puffs when they left and stripped everything useful that they could; hence the very barren look that is left there today.

The bunker goes 5 stories UNDERGROUND. We managed to get to the third level. The fourth floor is really wet and mucky and the fifth is completely flooded (I think they hit a natural spring. Whoops.

Beyond the alien bunker are the remnants of would be officer buildings, barracks, and a marble military parade and celebration center that are now overgrown with shrubs, cow poop and empty booze bottles. I want to say we met squatters as well at the unfinished barracks but I don’t want to label two men sitting and drinking next to their horse, cart and heard of rabid guard dogs. They told us there was nothing interesting to see her but I found the first floor of the empty building fascinating and innovating how (maybe they) turned it into a little storage area for hay and other farmy things for their operations whatever they may be.

Nothing to see here, yea right. There's a pony!

When I wasn't playing host I have been doing some really great things with my time.

I organized a river cleanup during the time that the International Ocean Conservancy based out of the States did a worldwide water cleanup campaign. Over 30 kids came and helped on a sunny Saturday and the news posted this to prove it! I have a brief clip in this Romanian news release- I swear its not just the cute blonde American boy speaking with his funny accent.

Following that I whipped up a Halloween Party to raise money for our unfunded youth club. Everyone seemed to have a fun time between the dancing in fog laced dance floor, pinata bashings, mummy contest, best dressed contests, a Halloween photo booth and other activities. Unfortunately some assholes busted a window on the floor below the disco room where it was being held and I had to pay to replace the huge glass window with the profits we raised. A good idea, a great event with a pathetic, disappointing ending. 

There was a significant haze from the fog machine

Future high fashion models

Helped plant over 200 baby trees in Rezina.

The blonde women is a new PCV at my site with her husband.

Rasied money for Hospice Angelus, a charity hospital organization in Chisinau by playing some footy. We were the only team with girls on it and we kicked some major but winning as many games as we lost and tied once. This is the first year in Peace Corps history that we ever scored a goal. Yes, my big head is finally getting smaller after that boast of ego and no, I did not score one of those goals but I want to think I helped make them possible.

Led a group of 6 Moldovan students from around the country through a weekend competition in Chisinau that went through how to write a business plan off the simple Lean Business Canvas Model- something that has the business world recently by storm. It was an awesome event with money raised from donations across the US thanks to an amazing business volunteer I'm lucky enough to call a colleague. I am so happy I was able to be a facilitator in this event. I fell in love with the energy and optimism in my group of kids and their interest in learning about business development. Even though my team didn't win they were really positive and I think they got a lot out of this event.

Started working with two groups of students in Ribnita (Transnistria) on a big entrepreneurial competition that will finish in February. Teams of 2-4 students in Moldova and Kenya (I'm unsure of the connection but hey!) will pitch a 5 minute presentation in front of a panel of judges with the chance to win big $$$ to put towards school tuition or start up costs for their business plan and finalists will fly to America for the final round. Again, its a lot of teaching the Lean Business Canvas Model and getting kids to think outside their comfort zones. I'm thinking flashbacks of Peace Corps in my dreams after life here in Moldova will include one too many Business Models but I'm ok with that!

The other PCV at my site talking business

Helped on a discussion panel about volunteering at a nearby city over Thanksgiving weekend. The city with the help of Peace Corps volunteers was teaching all about volunteering and other topics to students in the area over a course of a few weekends. After that I got to eat a fried turkey and all the other delectables that go with out glorious mouth-watering holiday. Yes I made amazing Pecan Pie and yes I ate amaaaazzinng Homemade green bean casserole. The Turkey was not my highlight besides watching how the boys rigged together a safe outdoor fryer (one majored in Engineering from GA Tech which explains everything) but it was great getting together with a good 25 other volunteers over Thanksgiving weekend. If you ever had fears I wasn't celebrating my American Holidays, there are no needs to fear anymore after the pictures added here!

Promoted Peace Corps and how we can be an asset to librarians in villages across Moldova through a Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation project fair in Moldova called NovaTeca. More chit chatting in Romanian. All day. 

Tried to raise money through yet another money generating opportunity at the International Women's Club of Moldova's Winter Charity Bazaar. All the embassies in Moldova sell cultural food and craft items as well as other big non-profits in a event that raises money for financing projects around Moldova. I made White Chocolate Popcorn sold in cups decorated with children's winter-themed drawings and sold jewelry some teenager girls and myself created over the last three weeks. Poor traffic flow, a crowded booth with too much other stuff going on made it hard to sell anything and we didn't raise a ton of money but its always a fun event to go to. I did manage to pick up some presents for people and Redfeather snowshoes (Merry Christmas to me!) made in LaCrosse, Wisconsin (started in Leadville, CO) for about 15 bucks at the Salvation Army booth. Yey for snowshoes! They will come in handy through my winter vacation in Georgia (think country not state!). 

And last but not least, I was able to raise all the money for my choir project thanks to you in the States! It was exciting to tell them about the great news and we are moving forward on purchasing dresses and matching bow-ties. Thanks a million again to everyone that helped us out! Thank you cards are on their way over!

The Rezina choir singing at a national classical choir festival in Chisinau in October

P.S. Happy Birthday Mom!! Enjoy your modern appliances, grocery stores and adequately heated rooms for me! (:

September 2nd....IT'S SEPTEMBER!?

Today marks both a disturbing and enjoyable day here in Moldova. For me its just another day of work but across the country Moldovan natives grumble at the excitement over the existent-yet-nonexistent border of Transnistria while simultaneously celebrating the fact that today marks the beginning of the school year and havoc-reeking summer kids finally disperse into semi-organized school programs. I'm secretly excited as well because this means I don't have to trek around town hunting kids in a soviet block safari when I want to ask them about project ideas. All kiddos are now all neatly organized into classrooms sorta. Yes! I say sorta  because class schedules are still not official and they will probably write and re-write the goofy Moldovan school schedules for the rest of the month until everybody is satisfied.

September 2nd marks the "Independence Day" for "Transnistria" also known as the "PDR: The Pridnistrovian Moldavian Republic." Happy kinda-23rd-birthday, Transnistria. Not. Protesters today are rioting in Chisinau, the capitol of Moldova as the Russian Deputy Prime Minister (Vice President guy?) in their mind, basicaly showed up to snicker and rub Moldovan citizens the wrong way today before heading over to to booze up and boogy down in Transnistria, where he helped lead the Transnistrian (Russian) Army in the War of Transnistria as an Army Major 21 years ago. And on top of that Russia keeps poking around saying they will raise gas prices and give Moldova hell because of the new pipeline being installed between Romania and a city in western Moldova. It's no wonder Moldovans have a drinking problem.

Onto lighter things... Since when has it been September? How did it get here? Why am I wearing a sweater!?

I have to flip through my camera just to remind myself of alllllllll that has happened since I've last blogged/blabbed about life. This is going to be a multiple blog sesh so bear with me and you will get more. I want to give you quantity and quality all at once instead short, dull bits all mushed together.


This is where I left off:

Where I celebrated my birthday. I wanted this dog. It was so friendly and we found it in the middle of nowhere! It followed us into the upstairs of the kindergarten where we slept. Whoops.

For more Turul Moldovei adventure photos visit the link "Turul Moldovei" ----->

The day after the 5 day walk around Moldova ended I made my way onto a tour bus drenched from a wicked downpour that happened as I was in transit through Chisinau and headed to Romania with 30+ Monastery-hungry Moldovans. 4 days of fun-filled Monastery hopping through Romania. That was the idea. It took what was originally only 3 hours to get to the border about 7 hours because well, the drivers and the bus weren't the sharpest tools in the shed. The trip ended up being great. I saw amazing sites across Romania including the religiousish celebration remembering (Saint) Stefan Cel Mare at the site where he is buried, bonded with people in my community and learned so much more about Romania.

After that trip I was genuinely jealous of former Peace Corps Romania volunteers that just wrapped up work there in 2012. Because it was so awesome I am going to pick my brain at a later date and write a blog exclusively on the trip. We had such an impressive guy guiding us along the way I have to give him justice by documenting the route and stops we took to really show you how much I did, for such little money, on such a short trip.

Less than three weeks later I met my parents at Chișinău's airport. How surreal. With beautiful Moldovan weather, my great host family and friends I think my parents were able to see a great side of my current country of residence in only a matter of 4 days.

I made sure to organize a little party outside my apartment and welcomed just about everyone I knew in town to come and meet my parents and help me celebrate the birthday of mine they missed as I was on the walk across Moldova. In the states it's no big deal to miss a birthday but here, it will not go unnoticed if you fail to show up to your birthday responsibilities. If you want to integrate, you have to,,,,,,you neeeeed to,,,,, drop a bunch of money and pass out food and drink to all your friends and co-workers for the entire day. Usually when it is someone's birthday where I work, my feet don't walk home the way they normally do. Next year I won't be so lucky with my parents in town to help me purchase 15 kilograms of freshly killed pork neck and about that weight in fresh veggies and fruit but I am banking on endless bottles of almost-end-of-the-year-housewine from my neighbors like I did this year.

After hours of translating, eating here and there, an impromptu visit from some members of my choir, singing songs for my parents and whatnot, the only thing I can complain about is that the local kids took my ladder golf balls. I schemed and plotted like an engineer with a local construction store owner and friend to create the game and was excited to introduce it and play it at my little party.

Well, the women were not at all interested in anything involving moving away from their perches and I became emerged in small talk as the ladder golf sat for the kids to play around with. What I forgot about Moldovan kids is that when they see something not theirs, something that may seem small and unimportant becomes ever so fascinating to the point they've talked themselves into taking it. Peace Corps volunteers have warned me before watching Uno cards vanish from decks and I caught a girl (more like another girl ratted her out) stuffing a scarf of mine into her backpack at my one time horrific substitute teaching of 2nd graders. One time a girl liked this tree picture I drew at a youth center so much she walked out with it as I ducked out for a minute and went down to a store. I saw her clutching it as a newly prized possession on the street and we exchanged a strange Clint Eastwood squints. The point being is that I have a 300 lei set of ladder golf without the golf ball thingies. There are no golf balls in Moldova. Fun fact.

I have to sleep! Till next week,

Kate

I got peed on by a toad! Then I went for a walk

This was going to be/should be my post from last week. I started to write, stopped, then went on to doing other things. One of the things being packing up myself for two weeks of travel.

I am enjoying 5 days of walking from one city in Moldova to the capital, Chisinau. Some PCVs organized a "Walk Across Moldova" where volunteers can walk from either the north or the south and promote volunteerism in each of the villages/cities we crash in. Right before the walk I picked up 3rd place in my first ever 5km and managed to win 100 lei... Everyday is full of surprises!

Today I picked up trash, yesterday we met Moldovans and talked about volunteering and played games with them and the day before we weeded and hung out with the mayor of the town for my birthday. From the 30th to the 4th of July I am traveling a historical part of Romania (once part of old Moldova) and will explore 10 famous monasteries in four days. If I still remember English by the end of it I promise to write a big fat blog all about it.

Check out www.pcmoldova.org to follow what we are up to right now... There are only a few days left but if you go to the right hand side of the page you will see Turul.. These are blogs we are writing on our trip!


Catch you all on the flipside! Thank you to everyone for the birthday wishes!!!



What I started to write last week... Ignore this part if you hate reading someone's unorganized thoughts.

Just now I got peed on by a toad. Prior this event I sucessfully made two pizzas and a batch of chocolate chip cookies for my neighbors in celebration of a newborn baby girl (who's name I've already forgotten) on my little soviet block.

Yesterday I hiked atleast 10km in search of the oldest monastery in Moldova from a campsite overlooking a beautiful valley with horses and goats and a secret waterfall. I went to a picnic to raise funds for a French-Moldovan based organization in a nearby village and dragged three other volunteers with me and made them sleep outside with me.

The day befpre that I made homemade pizza for the first time with my own home grown oregano and basil and finished it off with some of the best wine in Moldova I bought for a steal after visiting the vineyard with a group of Moldovans that afternoon. I also successfully started on of my projects financed by the RPCV's of Central Missouri by bringing together my business incubator residents and the residents of another business incubator in Moldova. Go Peace Corps. Thanks for the yummy wine.

Jealous yet?

I am.

Although this month makes me sing the version of I'm So Glad by Cream as I wake up everyday, I breezed through the end of April after my vacation in Hungary and May to the point I barely remember them happening. Before I know it I'll be jobless, Moldovanless and broke back in the United States. Hmpf. Disturbing thoughts.

Hungary and the Laziness Thereafter

"Any man who reads too much and uses his own brain too little falls into lazy habits of thinking."

Thank you Albert Einstein, you always know what to say don't you.

This accurately sums me up right now/this past two weeks/after vacation. To prove how accurate it is I'm going to admit the most effort I put into finding the advice from Einstein was google "lazy quotes" and the first site with one of the first quotes on the matter won me over, well hell, I don't really have a strong will to find something better and it sounded fitting. Maybe after my mystery novel I'll play the villain and hide my kindle for a while and quickly finish up watching Downton Abbey, the strangely addicting English PBS show I have absorbed myself into.

Me at Memento Park, home to all once important
Communist Statues in Hungary. Very interesting!

So much and so little has happened since my last archived post. I can tell you a bunch of what happened at the same time tell you how little I did anything after a ten day recess in Hungary. I can't explain the Easter activities that happened after the vacation in this posting. Its too much culture in one blog post the server might explode. So it's not exactly a funk, I'm happy to the point of giddy that spring has produced the first harvest of cherries and strawberries to consume and I have a long list of awesomeness I can add to my recent events but anything workwise was not at all present.

My vacation in Hungary was everything you would expect a really nice vacation in Western Europe (ish) to be. Belgian beer following delicious dinners, endless exploring of Budapest, including its Turkish Thermal baths, the opera house, Margaret Island, the snazziest cafe in the world and the other typical things you do and see in a big European city. The beautiful Hungarian Parliament building stood directly across from our hotel on the Danube where I caught up on what a free continental breakfast tastes like and I came across a fly fishing shop and a few second hand shops I needed to... explore. I was as happy as a hippo in a mud spa. And Chinese! Food that is. How could I forget!? We searched high and low for a place and nearing 2 hours of walking around at night before I finally asked a guy on the street if he 1) knew English and 2) could point us towards a Chinese place. It might just be the best meal I had and the free hot and spicy soup is something I should never forget (sorry traditional Hungarian soup Goulash, you came in second). Köszönjük Hungary!

After three nights in Budapest the rest of the trip was spent near Lake Balaton, a big lake surrounded by little lakes and castles and once active volcanoes but now home to summer vacation are like Wisconsin minus the mid-evil stuff but still all the cheese and sausage desired. We stayed a kilometer away from Lake Heviz (pronounced Hay-veez), the second largest thermal lake in the world. It was like swimming around in a retirement home's luke-warm pond. The weather was so hot and wonderful I actually burned when we were in Budapest and only rained once as we checked out some old castle ruins over looking Lake Balaton. Maybe it was good I held off on writing about the tannful trip as I remember Wisconsin was still mid Ice Age in April and early May...correct? It was also the time of the Marathon Bombing. I haven't watched so much tv my entire time in Peace Corps as I did that week as the craziness went on in America.

We stayed in a club resort thing that had a horse stables and clay tennis courts. Time flew by between horseback riding (duh), a day long bike ride in pursuit of a place to fish, castle hunting, playing tennis, eating everything we wanted, and glorious golfing day right on the lake at the "Imperial Lake Balaton Golf Course" that I hope you interpreted as I did with a nose in the air and snobbish tendencies. It. Was. Awesome.

Before I left for Hungary I made sure I knew how to say please and thank you in Hungarian. It's a cool language that I enjoyed trying to use. If you don't do this before traveling to far and distant lands, I recommend you start to. I felt like the tiney-weeney extra communication skills went a long way. I'll brief you on the p's and q's if and when you come to Moldova no problem but sadly don't be surprised like I was when I found out they don't say thank you when you hold doors open for them! Damn communistic times mistrust :(

          Köszönjük! (Kur-sur-nem)= Thank You!       Szívesen! (See-vah-shen)= You're Welcome!
          Kérem (Kee-re-em)= Please        Igen (E-gen)= Yes        Nem (Nem)= No
          Szia! (See-ya) Hello! <--- The strangest thing for your brain to translate because it sounds like they are saying good-bye to you before you even begin!

The Matthias Church of the Buda Castle district dating back to the 14th Century.

The Hungarian State Opera House

The notorious Hungarian Parliament Building

More to come!

Primavara promisings

Smiles all around from (shotgun?) wedding!
This is from a few months back. Took the editor a long time to turn us all into creamsicles.

Spring has sprung more or less with the first two days of April with the first glimpses of the sun. The sidewalk was full of all-wheel-drive baby carriages and stroller gangs, public intoxication and mini-skirts. It heated up to 70 degrees to fall back to tolerable damp, cloudy rainy days but its ok, Moldova needs all the rain it can get and I'm not quite ready to whip out my daisy dukes.

Best part of this week was the announcement of the Peace Corps grant winners this round of SPA applications. My partner and I headed to the capitol last weekend to sway two staff members and a panel of 4 PCVs on our small community gym project. We received the prized email this week congratulating us on being selected to receive $3,500 to put towards gym equipment. I'm not a fan of grant writing (with reasons that could take up an entirely different blog post) but it sure feels good to win this one.

I'm still in the move-in process of my new flat, not because there have been any problems but because after packing up one apartment and moving into another I've lost my Mrs. Clean motivation and there was a thick layer of dead spiders and dust between me and moving my clothes into a hallway closet (took me four hours to clean the fridge.. but I have a fridge! yey!).

Never the less, I invited a good friend over to help me celebrate the news with a bottle of Cabernet and chocolates sent from the states. I also invited her over to make sure I wouldn't mess up making Borscht for the first time. As my luck would have it, I fell into my normal role of assistant and watched her talents in the kitchen. From that, I've written up this recipe in case you are dying to get your hands on some healthy Russian soup.

*Disclaimer: If this recipe is wrong, I don't care. There are as many ways to make Borscht on food.com as there are ways to cook an egg if Kate instructions are distracting or crappy.

Borscht

For one medium size soup-cooking pot:

4 smaller beets cooked whole initially

¼ head of cabbage, sliced and diced thin

1 chunk of chicken, pork, beef or bacon cut up into lil chunks, they prefer meat still on the bone here or beans… or both if you’re going big

3 small onions diced(or to your preference as all of these ingredients are)

3-4 cloves of garlic grated

2 medium sized carrots grated

1 big tablespoon scoop of tomato paste

3 medium sized potatoes (I skipped these guys… dieting..)

1 bullion of chicken or beef soup broth stuff

Splooshes of vegetable oil

Salt and pepper to taste along with fresh parsley, bay leaves and any other seasonings you wish to add

¼ cup of Borscht acru (sour yellow looking water sold in a plastic bottle… in Moldova, maybe skip in America?)

1.       Grab a pot and start boiling the beets first. These guys take a long time to cook, around 45 min. When they are easily pokable with a fork they are done. Smaller beets will take less time to cook then the big suckers. When they cool down, peel/cut off the outsides and then slice the insides into little french fry strips.

2.       As the beets are boiling, throw the meat into the main soup pot with the bouillon cube and enough water to fill the pot half way. Some people add small uncut onions to this now; others go do the next step… I think grabbing a lean chicken breast was the wrong choice of meat. It ended up tasting like dry meat in the soup. I would go for fattier meat on the bone or fully skinned chicken legs/wings.

3.       Add minced garlic and onion to a big frying pan or pot and start frying with a big sploosh of oil on low heat. I added the spices and whatnot to this pot/pan now then added in the cabbage and carrots. Swirl all of that and add a little water or the borscht acru water stuff AND the tomato paste now so you are basically swirling around a mini really really thick soup. Towards the end add the beets and let it simmer.

4.       While all of that is going on you have to check on the meat cooking and skim off all “spumos” or foam that collects at the top of the water. When that crap stops conglomerating for sure, add the veggieness from the other pot and let it all cook for a while adding more spices, salt and pepper to taste. Fill the pot almost to the top with more water if needed.

You're on your own with when to add potatoes. I like my soup super thick so I added cabbage, onions and beets to my little thick-soup-hearts' delight. I also added Portuguese hot sauce I received the other week from a tenor in the choir (I knew there would be hidden benefits of joining the choir!). They will offer a mildly hot Chile on the side at restaurants here if you like to turn up the heat. They also like to add a chicken claw and sour cream. Those as well I have decided to write out of my soup creation. 

Poftă Bună!

-Kate

Holy Bananza Pants

I'm saying Holy Bananza Pants because I don't know how to reallllyyyy curse in Romanian. Only Russian and I only know the words phonetically, not in Cryllic. Sigh. I'm cold.

My newly loved apartment is falling apart on me probably as we speak. I would take a picture of me in my lounging getup for a visual of whats-what here but I don't want a picture of me in my exercise wristbands, three layers of sweaters, fuzzy bear cap and concealing scarf floating around the internet.

I moved out of my host families house (on good terms) the middle of February to a "cozy" apartment a short sprint from work with a soccer field DIRECTLY outside my front door in a quiet part of town. The week after I left my host brother received a saxophone from his dad in Italy, my least-loved instrument and is probably bane of all residents of his soviet block. Bam! Perfect Timing!!!

The silver linings of my newly beloved acasa started turning to rust and before I knew it, I've rented an apartment with a spurious fridge, oven (sad face no pizza or pecan pie!), bathroom faucet, balcony window, kitchen pipes annddd as of a week or so ago my one-room gas heating unit took a dump too. Now, now, don't freak.. I now have two space heaters and have pulled out my extremely warm sleeping bag for extra snuggling support (best birthday present!).

I'm not exactly suffering.

But I am a bit annoyed.

I moved in acknowledging:
- I need to buy a hot water heater unless I fancy ice baths (with the agreement of rent reduced for the price of the unit).
- No heat in the kitchen or bathroom. And there is a testy window by the oven that likes to stay open n free from work retirements (see bird story below).. Meaning I will not be spending much time in the kitchen (in the winter). Which isn't much of a big disappointment or unusual if you ask anyone who has ever lived with me.
- Everything is old. Everything. But the place comes with free use of any of the four different shot and cocktail glass collections displayed in glass cupboards in the main room. This is not unique to my situation but almost standard in Moldovan apartment renting terms.
- I have a sofa for a bed. Its not too bad.
- I get a naturally cold apartment with or without the open balcony window because of its first floor location. Groovy for Moldovan summers but people damn near shudder when I tell them its on the "prima etaj" and say its too cold of an apartment location (colder would be on a side of the building with vacant rooms below and above but I am not good at debate in Romanian enough to care).

I moved in and accepted the challenge with a background in cold weather. First floor, crappy, or not I was wanting a place of my own and I wanted to tough out the things I knew I was getting into.

Luckily, "The Adventures of Cold Kate in the Tundra (that's what we named it)" are coming to an end this weekend and I get a second shot at solo apartment living in Moldova. The unrefrigerated food I lost during the warm days of sun in the balcony made me mad. Then the window in the door between the balcony where the oven is and the kitchen just shattered when closed one day. Between that and accepting the daily trick of using-a-pot-under-the-kitchen's-faucet-as-a-mini-sink-because-the-pipes-below-are-clogged-like-a-poisoned-artery-then-running-it-to-the-pisssmellingtoilet-to-get-rid-of-the-water-used... put me over the edge. I'm not here for the next two years to volunteer my stipend for the reconstruction of this humble-la-bode and I need a fridge, dammit.

-Break- Bird story debriefing for those who didn't get the low-down...

One morning when I was waking up but still in bed I heard a bird outside my bedroom's door in the hallway to my bathroom. I sat and listened to it chirp around and decided a bird chirping around is better then a bird flying around having a heart attack if I came out of my room to check him out. Later on, after layering my cold-kitchen-battle-clothes, I left my warm room and ventured to the bathroom. In the bathroom I had three big soup pots from the bucket bath I took the night before. One, closest to the toilet had the evidence that the bird checked out my bathroom and took a pop in a pot for shits and giggles (assuming birds giggle...I would guess they do) before getting out and going on his birdish way. Someone just said to me... getting pooped on by a bird is good luck! Well I say having a bird who is smarter and closer to being toilet trained is far luckier!!!


My sympathetic Moldovan Peace Corps boss came up and approved yet again another apartment my work partner helped me find. We made sure this apartment's refrigerator works and everything is all good. And I get not one but TWO beds! Think of that! Or one bed, one couch. Whatever. Still awesome. I'm feeling spoiled with hot water, double the balcony space to test my green thumb and a second chance at apartment living. Could someone please teleport my dog here so it can really be my Moldovan palace??

Next week will come with new apartment adventures that I'm beyond looking forward to. A weekend trip to the Russian second hand piata in Chisinau will help me fill my apartment with handy stuff and rekindle the relationship I had with second hand shopping back in the US. If nothing, it is one of my favorite places to walk around to look at all the old soviet loot and test out my Romanian.

Happy Weekend!!! Hope you get pooped on!!

Lately I've felt like I've abandoned post in anthill apartment city I call home. A vacation to Romania, two Christmases, two New Years' (believe it), two birthdays, one snowstorm, a week long Peace Corps training seminar, my first Moldovan wedding and many more off-site adventures have led me astray from not only my blog but also my community the last month and a half.

No need to grumble, I have been having a blast!

Winning a 100 lei gift certificate for describing the pizza.

Shortly after Christmas number one in Rezina, celebrated with two brief Christmas choir concerts and a trip to the snazzy US Ambassadors house for a warm Christmas celebration with great food and drink we never once ate, yet alone saw for sale in our work sites, myself and four other PCVs took a midnight bus to Bucharest, Romania. I won't admit to feeling like we woke up and arrived in a new world, but the change from Moldova was refreshing, fun, and not too bad on the wallet.

Decisions made in Bucharest came from our bellies. McDonald's breakfast! Yesss! See something that looks like Chinese food? Lets eat it. Want to try the place with "Tex-Mex" in the name? Think they have Tequila? I think we are using, "Since everything else was closed because of New Years... that's all we could do" as a main excuse to our gluttony.

I did spot a Texan when I saw cowboy boots and a big brown leather jacket walk in with what looked like his NorthFace entourage, ironically at a Tex-Mex restaurant in Bucharest.  Between him hitting on different waitresses as if the restaurant was in his honor, I walked up and asked him what kind of boots he was wearing as an ice breaker to see where he was from...

Starts with an "a" you say?? .... Ariat maybe?

I panicked thinking my bet was off at the onlooking Peace Corps table..Maybe he wasn't from Texas... I thought it brought shame to Texan Gods or something equally condemnable if you were a boot strappin' Texan.

But.. Sho nuff. He says hes from Corpus Christi, Texas and he's here as a private pilot hanging out with his other pilot friends. And why yes he does believe his boots are Ariat's now that I've said it.

Bingo.

After ringing in the new year in Bucharest we made our way into the mountains for some Medieval Mountain time. Our first stop was at Sibu, an old German/Hungarian town dating back to the 12th century. It had this big wall and the cities claim to fame is that it was home to one of Europe's first pharmacies and schools for pharmacy and is home to the first book ever written in Romanian (but in Cyrillic??).

The last stop was my favorite; Brașov. Located more in the heart of the Transylvanian mountains, a short drive to Braun's Castle (home of the story of Dracula) and home to a popular ski resort, Brașov brings in many tourists to the region. I felt like I was back in Vail with Swiss chalet/German architecture and happy go lucky tourists everywhere. Unfortunately the time there was unlike my routine with Carhartt in Vail. No hiking, no skiing, no dogs. Hot wine, strolls through the old city center and more mouth stuffing filled our two days to the point we were full to the brim and light in the pockets returning on the 8 hour bus drive back to Chișinău.

First vacation in Peace Corps successfully completed.

The same day I got back from the trip my sleep-deprived presence was requested at my training host mom's birthday and sauna party. I got whacked with this cool leaf thing in the sauna and whacked with a lot of alcohol that night but it was great to see everyone from my training village again and a great way to ring in Old Christmas (Christmas number two).

Moldovan's find every reason to party. January 6th/7th they party on the old calendar's Christmas and again the same on the 14th with the old New Years. I'm still not sure how people get anything done between big feasts and hangovers in this country. Not that I'm opposed to it I'm just unsure when work gets done.

Somewhere in this time kids bang on your door reciting holiday poems with the hopes you will fill their pockets with cash and their shopping bags with candy, you eat daily special bread, gain weight and a chance to turn diabetic with all the food and sweets consumed and a priest comes to bless everyone's house in town with a broom and load of water to spray everywhere he pleases. I had to hide my electronics in my bed and was out of the house when it happened so I missed getting sprayed. Oh darn.

I can't leave out the part I mentioned earlier with my first Moldovan wedding experience.

A brief snow storm led to the rescheduling of a week of Peace Corps training but opened a door to play tag-a-long with a Peace Corps friend at a small wedding. Because I wasn't equipped for wedding crashing that weekend I got to take a trip down to the second hand store and whip together an outfit. Oh darn. Endless of supplies of cognac, champagne and house wine juiced our dancing feet up for endless hours of hora dancing. I started off step but somewhere between 11 hours of straight up hora-ing and people boozing I either figured it out or people started dancing as poorly as me.

Since Moldovan weddings are an all night affair, we ate twice. It's common to eat three times. I have no complaints to this as this was the only time they didn't give you crap for sitting down and was a chance to sober up. At the second feast everyone was greeted by a microphone and a tithing plate. This is the time where they/we pay for the bills. One by one people would stand up, drop some money down and proclaim, "I am giving ___ Lei/Euros/Dollars for the newlyweds and good luck, have fun, hoorah hoorah whatever." Not that big of a deal but you hear how much people give which can be embarrassing/awkward if you are poor.. or a Peace Corps volunteer with limited funds.

Before we ducked out at 4:30 am the hora-ing paused for the newlyweds, wrapped up in a bunch of blankets sitting at a table to open all of the wedding gifts received and then they cut the cake. My feet throbbed in my second hand heels so we surrendered a little bit earlier than others.

No taxis, sore feet and a tired brain led me to sprinting down the street, heels in hand, in my pantyhose. Mind you this is the night after the snowstorm day that cancelled our Peace Corps conferences and there was still snow on the ground. When I ran out (literally) of road with the road surface showing and hit the snow I would retreat to piggy-back portages to the next strip of potential sprinting surface. My pantyhose survived and my feet applauded the efforts made to avoid the death march in heels.

We made it back around 5:15 am (about exactly 12 hours after we showed up to the wedding) and slept until noon. Only in Moldova.

After the Peace Corps conference to improve grant writing skills and a two focus days on improving our limba Romana, I went back to work with new ideas and a lot of work on my plate for the next few months. I have a few ideas of projects for the youth club I am working with I hope to get started soon.

Goals for this month and next include a grant for a business club, a grant for work out room equipment, meeting with resident entrepreneurs at the new business incubator, networking and brainstorming with the local county hall on potential parks and city improvements, improving websites and promotional stuff, finding funding for choir dresses and moving into an apartment.

Tonight I am off to make modified rice crispy treats, tomorrow night chocolate chip cookies and the following night brownies. This week is Peace Corps week (which I don't really understand... I have Peace Corps week for the next two years...) where we are encouraged to show off American culture and whatnot in our community by doing random American stuff. I am going to bake and hope youth and members of the community will come in to the youth center from 1-5 this Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday and buy my goodies. All the proceeds will go towards youth club activities.

I will let you know how everything turns out and (try to) keep you updated!! Wish me luck!!


-Kate

P.S. The Chirstmas care packages were a great hit. Thank you friends and family! Multumesc foarte mult!!! I love passing out the gifts and treats to my Moldovan friends and family, everyone really appreciates it as much as I do!